UKC

700m. Climb on the eastern flanc of the south face, descending directly to the Doigt du Dieu. Fully trad, no equipment or anchors on the route except for about 10 pitons along the way.

Start with a long traverse to the left. Then climb the chimney / crack that usually is a flowing waterfall. Climb up and right into another chimney corner following the line of weakness on the wall. Climb up to a large ledge. Traverse to the right to climb a loose red slab to the the east flanc of a vague large pillar above. Climb to the summit of the pillar, traverse left, climb an airy corner and exit to the left. Traverse right, climb up a loose rock leaning corner and traverse right all the way to the end of a very loose rock ledge. Climb up a corner and exit to the left, climbing loose rock wall up and left. Climb over a little pillar on the right and downclimb, followed by a long traverse tending only slightly upwards to a good narrow ledge leading to the base of the vague pillar that leads to the col of Doigt de Dieu. Climb up and to the right side of the pillar (airy). Here either choose the Chaud variant or climb easily to the edge of the Doigt du Dieu.

TD if exit on the col at the base of the Doigt du Dieu.
TD+ if climbing the Chaud variant to the summit of Doigt du Dieu.

Check the route description here:
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56198/fr/la-meije-doigt-de-dieu-pic-central-face-s-integrale

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Sous Le Griffe Lucifer

Grade: TD+ ***
(Les Gillardes)

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