Our erroneous attempt to climb the Pierre Allain (Direct south face) somehow got us on this route... It is the big obvious (left most) chimney line on the main face (pointing slightly to the right of the glacier carre). Some loose rocks and harder climbing than expected indicated that something was not quite right... but we still hoped for the best until we hit the big overhanging section with an amazing flake and crack line leading left past a single bolt. That was certainly not the Perre Allain and not 5c anymore...
Considering our options we breached our way up (I would say: 6c given the steepness... but also: It is a fantastic intimidating and exposed pitch with good protection along a crack). Escaped across a bolted belay on a slanting slab to the right and found our way up to the glacier carre ... and had our first ever unplanned bivouac. Finished the traverse next day.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

3 users have logged this