Climbs 1000
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1260m a.s.l
Faces all

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The fantastic first pitch of Vallecas (V) at La Pedriza © Carmen Elphick

Crag features

Your worst nightmare, in slab form.
Mostly granite slabs with nice run outs, mayority of the routes in this area are smearing balancy climbing style, but there´s also hundreds of trad routes (mostly cracks & offwidths), more sporty routes (crimpy faces, overhangs), plenty of boulders... I mean, Here at UKC Pedriza it's been divided in two main "crags" depending on how far they are from the carpark.

The problem is that Pedriza is made of almost hundred "real" crags, or maybe more? who knows it's huge believe me.

Most of the faces are in the sun all day - but you can usually find shade at the bottom of the faces in the boulders - Climbed here in early July and found shade at the bottom of every face we climbed at. But it was HOT 30+ degrees each day.


Approach notes

From Madrid, go north through the M607 heading Colmenar Viejo, then after Colmenar Viejo take the exit to M609 towards Soto del Real/Miraflores, then take the exit Avenida de las Margaritas, in the second roundabout turn left to take M608, heading Manzanares el Real, pass the petrol station, get into Manzanares el Real, keep straigh on the main street (Av de Madrid then Calle Real) and then just before the end of the town turn right into Av. de la Pedriza and follow that one till the carpark near el Tranco.

There's two carparks, one close to the river, bigger but you'l walk just 5 min more. And the other at the Tranco, following that road till it ends, you'll see a smaller and usually full carpark. From there take the stairs close to the restaurant El Tranco.

Padriza anterior crags are usually 20/45 to walking from Cantocochino, and from El Tranco could be as less as 20 min and as much as to 2 hrs, depending on the crag.

Restricted Access

Gate for Canto Cochino opens  at 9 a.m. Once the gate is open follow the road through the forest to its end where there is a large car park and Bar. Gate closes at 10pm - Dont be late!!

Also you should check seasonal bird bans, ask the rangers at the main entrance for Canto Ccochino (if they are there)

There is no restriction at the El Tranco car park, and no barrier - you can access all the park from here but its a longer walk!

This area has a reputation for its slabs, of which there are many but I certainly would not agree that it is mainly slabs, I have made a couple of trips there now and I went for trad cracks & I was not disappointed or short of things to climb...The multi pitch trad guide is not available in UK but their is lots. Their are cracks of all sizes & if your are looking for offwidth cracks outside of Yosemite then grab your big cams get your ass over to Pedriza
Stu Bradbury - 25/Aug/17
The Harrisons of Spain. Loads of climbing steeped in Madrileno climbing history. Couldn't find a Festerhaunt or a toilet though.
leland stamper - 24/Nov/13
Awesome place to climb. But please add 1 to 2 grades!!! to the current grades in the april sun. Most of the routes are slabs with a couple of good steep granite venues. All bolts i encounted were in good nick and not worth taking any trad gear for a shortish trip, although there are a few inspiring crack lines around and the odd sport climb that requires a friend or two. Climbing is mainly on granite friction slabs and grades always feel stiff (maybe the time of year i went and preferable time would be earlier in the year for colder weather). Bolts can be spaced at times requiring a cool head at times. Recommended though!!!
geoff.comley - 12/Apr/11
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