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Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 950m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

This is the "spot a la mode" in the Gorges du Verdon. The climbing is mostly on steep tufas with very poor footholds and are very powerful, though the easier routes are more fingery and less steep. The pitches are long, sometimes up to 50m and there are about 10 multi-pitch routes. Grades are very tough here.

It is very hard to get the right conditions, best is when the Mistral is blowing from the north. The rock is really sharp and shreds skin very quickly.

There is a topo available on Antonin Rhodes and Carole Palmier's site called Greenspits. Please join and contribute towards the equipping here.

Approach notes

This is a very serious place to climb. Be aware of the weather forecast before you visit because you could be trapped there if you're not careful. The approach is long and complicated and you need to wear a harness and helmet. You will need a descendeur and via ferratta type slings or quick draws (a jumar can be useful for the return).

Park at one of the parking spots at the Tunnel du Fayet on the D71 on the left side ("rive gauche") of the canyon. The descent starts down an obvious gully between the tunnels. Follow the hand lines, abseil ropes and via cordata down the gully. From the end of the fixed rope follow the path downhill for about 10 minutes to arrive at a short rope that leads upwards. From there follow the path rightwards to arrive at the lefthand end of the crag after a total of about 25 minutes. The return takes about 30 minutes.

Please be discreet and tidy. Don't leave any litter or finger tape and make sure that you go to the toilet before you arrive. Antonin Rhodes is the principle equipeur and he is really keen that the place is kept clean. 

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Climbs at this crag

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