Rockfax Description
A classic route which takes a logical line up predominantly excellent rock. The long traverse feels bold but is well protected (and also avoidable) and the upper pitches provide enjoyable and technical corner climbing. Recommended, even if the perhaps excessive pegging on some pitches detracts somewhat from the route's original 'dragon-like' daring.
Start in the centre of the face on black rock, ascend rightwards up a small ledge to reach a small corner.
1) IV+, 30m. Climb the corner, exit and move right for 3 metres then climb a second corner to exit right to a good belay on a small platform.
2) IV+, 30m. Ignore the yellow corner above and step left, then enter a chimney. Climb the chimney passing a chockstone near the top to move right onto a ledge. Belay below a crack.
3) III, 20m. Follow a large flake right over easy ground then move up and left to a thread belay.
4) V+, 30m. Climb the slab above, moving left then back right level with a ledge on the left. Climb direct for a few metres then ascend diagonally left. Continue left past a flake to a good belay.
5) V+, 25m. Move left then climb a yellow crack direct before an exposed and rather loose traverse left leads to a belay on a ledge.
6) V, 35m. Continue in the same line, making an initially delicate traverse following a horizontal yellow crack (exposed but well protected) to then ascend to the base of a pillar.
6a) II, 35m. For an easier variant, ascend a small corner above the belay to reach a large ledge and follow this easily left (II) on looose ground to rejoin the first variant.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb a black crack to the right of the pillar leftwards, then from the top of the pillar continue in the same line following a flake to a belay below a crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack above then exit left, pass the base of a small corner and climb a second crack to a belay on the left, just left of the small black roof that caps the corner.
9) V+, 25m. Climb the large black corner above, pulling through an overhang near to top to reach a belay on a ledge.
10) V, 30m. Follow the continuation corner above for 30m, keeping mainly on the right wall then exit right onto a ledge below inclined rock.
11) IV-, 45m. Climb the slab above from left to right then enter a chimney. Follow this to a thread belay to the right of the prominent yellow roofs.
12) IV-, 20m. Follow a crack direct or slightly left to exit onto a large ledge just right of a yellow tower. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fellover | 21 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description and topo is pretty good I reckon (contrary to some opinions in the logs). Pitches make sense and descriptions are decent (bar P6). Grades pretty fair, apart from P10 is probably at least V+ rather than V when compared with the other V+ pitches on the route. Did the grade V option for the P6 traverse. This is probably the worst described bit in the Rockfax. The grade II option didn't look too bad, but didn't try it. P6 grade V option info: It's large break, not really a yellow crack as Rockfax says. It slopes downwards. There is an option to belay halfway on good bolts (or very close by pegs). I would recommend splitting if the second is nervous/concerned. I did a mixture of walking along the break and mantling down and hand traversing the break with good footholds. Imo it's easier than grade V. It is bold, falling in some places would be pretty grim, probably worse for second* than leader. Descent from ledge to gully was straightforward, well cairned and not particularly loose. Scree gully is steep. Saw an Italian basically run down it, but also saw others going very slowly. *If you have some tat/leaver krabs there are backroping options from pegs/bolts to help protect a second that needs it. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description and topo is pretty good I reckon (contrary to some opinions in the logs). Pitches make sense and descriptions are decent (bar P6). Grades pretty fair, apart from P10 is probably at least V+ rather than V when compared with the other V+ pitches on the route. Did the grade V option for the P6 traverse. This is probably the worst described bit in the Rockfax. The grade II option didn't look too bad, but didn't try it. P6 grade V option info: It's large break, not really a yellow crack as Rockfax says. It slopes downwards. There is an option to belay halfway on good bolts (or very close by pegs). I would recommend splitting if the second is nervous/concerned. I did a mixture of walking along the break and mantling down and hand traversing the break with good footholds. Imo it's easier than grade V. It is bold, falling in some places would be pretty grim, probably worse for second* than leader. Descent from ledge to gully was straightforward, well cairned and not particularly loose. Scree gully is steep. Saw an Italian basically run down it, but also saw others going very slowly. *If you have some tat/leaver krabs there are backroping options from pegs/bolts to help protect a second that needs it. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Lagazuoi Nord
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 46 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Original Finish
Grade: V+ ***
(Punta Col de Varda)