UKC

8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
There are numerous variants to this route. The route described below is one of the most accessible and thus popular of the many possible lines.
Start just right of a metal plaque below a left-trending chimney.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the chimney then continue direct to a small overhang. Avoid this using the juggy grey rock to the right (possible to climb direct, VI-) and continue to reach a narrow ledge. Follow this left to a stance with two bolts.
2) IV, 35m. Climb a short corner then move right under a small overhang. Avoid this on the right then move back left above it to scale a black slab direct. Continue to a good ledge with a bolt belay.
3) III, 30m. Traverse easily right along the ledge to belay in the middle of a large black slab.
4) IV+, 35m. Climb the slab above with fine climbing on excellent rock, then move slightly right to follow a vertical crack to a ledge below a narrow left-slanting corner and a small pillar.
5) IV, 35m. Climb the right side of the pillar to reach a ledge. Move right then climb a black corner. Exit right from this and continue to reach a stance in a large gully.
6) IV, 20m. Follow the gully left for 7m then cross right up a blocky crack to reach a ledge below a small roof.
7) IV+. 35m. Move out left to go around the roof then step back right above it. Traverse left along a small ledge then move back right to arrive below a narrow chimney. Climb this as it becomes steadily narrower then exit right onto a scree bank.
8) IV, 40m. Ignore the yellow wall and the corner above and instead move right towards the arete. Reach a ledge and climb a short corner above, exiting on the right to then follow easy ground back left up a narrow black gully and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Cipriani, Zanolli, Cavattoni, Pavan 1990 15/Jun/1990.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Martin Hore 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is poor from pitch 6 onwards. We found pitch 7's stance after several false attempts. Pitch 7 itself is excellent though not quite as described. We failed to find pitch 8 but exited rightwards without difficulty onto the arete/scree bank which then proved to be very taxing to ascend (in by now wet conditions). There is a two peg belay in a patch of solid rock in the scree slope, but this would be easily missed. An excellent route marred by a trying finish - there are, I think better finishes available than the one described.
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is poor from pitch 6 onwards. We found pitch 7's stance after several false attempts. Pitch 7 itself is excellent though not quite as described. We failed to find pitch 8 but exited rightwards without difficulty onto the arete/scree bank which then proved to be very taxing to ascend (in by now wet conditions). There is a two peg belay in a patch of solid rock in the scree slope, but this would be easily missed. An excellent route marred by a trying finish - there are, I think better finishes available than the one described.

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via del Diedro

Grade: IV+ ***
(Cinque Torri)

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