There are numerous variants to this route. The route described below is one of the most accessible and thus popular of the many possible lines.
Start just right of a metal plaque below a left-trending chimney.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the chimney then continue direct to a small overhang. Avoid this using the juggy grey rock to the right (possible to climb direct, VI-) and continue to reach a narrow ledge. Follow this left to a stance with two bolts.
2) IV, 35m. Climb a short corner then move right under a small overhang. Avoid this on the right then move back left above it to scale a black slab direct. Continue to a good ledge with a bolt belay.
3) III, 30m. Traverse easily right along the ledge to belay in the middle of a large black slab.
4) IV+, 35m. Climb the slab above with fine climbing on excellent rock, then move slightly right to follow a vertical crack to a ledge below a narrow left-slanting corner and a small pillar.
5) IV, 35m. Climb the right side of the pillar to reach a ledge. Move right then climb a black corner. Exit right from this and continue to reach a stance in a large gully.
6) IV, 20m. Follow the gully left for 7m then cross right up a blocky crack to reach a ledge below a small roof.
7) IV+. 35m. Move out left to go around the roof then step back right above it. Traverse left along a small ledge then move back right to arrive below a narrow chimney. Climb this as it becomes steadily narrower then exit right onto a scree bank.
8) IV, 40m. Ignore the yellow wall and the corner above and instead move right towards the arete. Reach a ledge and climb a short corner above, exiting on the right to then follow easy ground back left up a narrow black gully and the top. © Rockfax
FA. Cipriani, Zanolli, Cavattoni, Pavan 1990 15/Jun/1990.
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