UKC

330m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on a small ledge with a piton a few metres from the ground on a leaning pillar. There is a deep yellow chimney on the right, and the route is just right of, and 30m below, two rock windows.
1) IV-, 35m. Climb easily left then take a right-trending corner-ramp to a good belay left of a flake.
2) IV, 30m. Climb up and left to reach a small ledge, then climb a crack on the right before moving back left to belay on a ledge.
3) III+, 30m. Climb the slabs above with superb climbing for the grade then continue in a corner-crack. Move left around a small roof to the belay.
4) IV, 25m. Follow a crack above the belay (well-pegged) then move left onto slabs to avoid a bulge. Move back into the crack to reach a ledge and a good stance.
5) IV, 40m. Move up and right to avoid a yellow overhang above the belay then climb back left to re-enter the crack. Follow this past a small ledge on the right and continue to a stance on larger vegetated ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
6) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Bassa.
7) I, 20m. Traverse easily rightwards under the yellow face.
8) V+, 20m. Climb direct then follow an enjoyable corner.
9) III+, 25m. Climb the continuation chimney past various chockstones and belay below a corner on the right.
10) V+, 35m. Climb the corner-crack rightwards, with more difficult moves early on, to reach a small ledge on the left just before the corner's end. Route-finding can be difficult so take note of the pegs and signs of progression to ensure you are on the right route.
11) III, 25m. Don't continue up the corner; instead follow a vague crack through loose ground diagonally right to top out by a prominent boulder surrounded by barbed wire. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Via del Buco until big ledge then continue up often wet chimneys to finish
Approach from 46.5252N 12.00502E. Climb base 46.52562N 12.0053E.

Feedback

User Date Notes
HannahC 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P7 (start of P8) belay is x2 rusty pegs which can be backed up (even the local guide backed up these up)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P7 (start of P8) belay is x2 rusty pegs which can be backed up (even the local guide backed up these up)

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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nuvolo South Pillar - Scalet

Grade: V+ ***
(Pale di San Martino)

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