UKC

Rockfax Description
IV, 1000m. A varied route to the summit of the Verte that provides good climbing on rock and mixed ground and finishes up the stunning Arête Sans Nom.
1) 4b. Follow a ramp system diagonally right for 80m - loose.
2) 5a. Climb a corner right of a pinnacle for two rope lengths.
3) 3c. Go just right of the arête for two rope lengths to a peg belay. Make a 5m abseil then traverse right to gain a crack.
4) 5b. Climb the crack for and then follow the crack right of the corner above for another rope length.
5) 4a. Descend ledges on the right and then climb cracks above.
6) 4b. Climb a corner above to a terrace.
7) 6a. Climb a steep flake then move left along a ledge to gain a steep corner above to a notch.
8) 5a. Climb slabs to the crest and follow easy ground to the foot of the ice. Most teams make a bivvi before climbing the ice.
9) Climb the ice slope and trend right to the foot of gully.
10) 4. Climb the Marsigny-Mohr gully in 3 rope lengths. This often contains brittle ice, similar to Chèré Couloir on the Tacul.
11) From the top of the gully, traverse right across ledges and broken ground to reach the Brèche Sans Nom.
12) 4c. Follow a chimney system for a couple of rope lengths to join a ledge. From here, climb a further chimney on the right. Follow easy ground above to a steepening.
13) 4c. Traverse 40m right and follow a further chimney system and then exit to the right.
14) 6b. Climb a short set of twin cracks and then skirt under the summit of the Aiguille Sans Nom on the Charpoua side.
15) 3c. Follow the ridge, bypassing the first gendarme on the left and all the rest on ledges on the right of the ridge.
16) Go round the first gendarmes of the Aiguille Croux and over the second and then follow the ice field easily to the summit. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest
New Piola route

Grade: TD+ 6c ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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