Rockfax Description
III, 900m, 5 - 6 hours. A classic route following a beautiful curving line, this is an ideal introduction to long snow and ice routes. Even the route's biggest fan would have to admit that the climbing is not overly exciting or difficult, but maintaining concentration and technique in the face of repetition and fatigue is a skill in itself.
1) The bergschrund is usually fairly small and passed without any difficulty. If it is tricky, there is a rock buttress 50m above it allowing you to belay and bring up your partner on a top rope.
2) Follow 45 degree snow straight up the middle of the couloir to the foot of a steepening.
3) Climb the steeper section (60 degrees) on the right-hand side of the couloir for 60m to reach easier ground.
4) Continue up the easier ground, which maintains a 50 - 55 degree angle, as the couloir bends right and then back left.
5) Head directly up 55 degree snow and ice. This section is often crevassed so careful route choice is required. The route emerges just below the summit of the Aiguille Verte. Follow the stunning, easy ridge to the top. © Rockfax

M Couturier, A Charlet, J Simond 01/Jul/1932.


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Alpine Progression , Summer easier alpine , Winter Alps 2023 , TM Alps


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Route of Interest

Grade: D ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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