III, 700m, 5 - 6 hours. This route doesn't see many ascents since it is better known as a 'safe' way off the Verte. However, it makes for a good adventure in its own right and is a worthwhile way up a wonderful peak.
It is worth bearing in mind that descending the route involves a lot of downclimbing and only the occasional short abseil. This usually takes as long as going up and since it usually takes at least 6 hours to climb the route, it makes for a very long day and should not be underestimated. However, it is relatively safe from objective danger so if in any doubt about descending the Whymper, choose this instead.
1) Cross the bergschrund beneath a deep, right-facing couloir. Climb up to this for 10m and then traverse up and left across a vague ledge system to reach the foot of a wide, shallow gully.
2) Scramble up on the left of the gully to where it widens.
3) Head towards the ridge crest via some easy mixed ground and, 20m below the crest, follow a short ramp rightwards.
4) The ramp leads to the ridge. Follow this to the snow ridge just below the summit. Avoid anything that looks difficult by dropping down onto the right-hand side of the ridge but generally stick on, or just to the right of the crest.
5) The last 20m to the summit is a lovely snow ridge - climb this, sit down and enjoy the view! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic ridge, mixed rock and snow.
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