UKC

100m.

Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 hour. An enjoyable option when the Northwest Ridge is busy, which it often is. There is minimal technical difficulty but the traverse across the top of the Chevalier Couloir is exposed and can feel delicate in icy conditions.
Approach - Walk down the steps from the top station of the Grands Montets cable car to reach the Col des Grands Montets. Climb the glacier easily, initially on the left, then continue on the left.
1) Cross the bergschrund and front point up to below the rocky outcrop.
2) Traverse under the rock to reach the 'demi-lune' (half moon) snow arête at the top of the Chevalier Couloir.
3) Cross the 'demi-lune' and scramble easily up the final rocks to the summit.
Descent - Descend by the Northwest Ridge. The crux wall can be abseiled if needs be. From the foot of the crux wall it is possible to avoid the exposed snow traverse under the rock buttress by continuing along the ridge crest and then making 2 x 15m abseils to reach the curved snow ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Col des Montets go up easy slopes on the left. Go up steeper slopes to the right of the ridge proper and join it at the demi-lune finish to the Chevalier Couloir. Continue up to the summit rocks. Sections at 50/55 degrees.

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Goûter Route

Grade: PD ***
(Mont Blanc)

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