UKC

85m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous route with plenty of interesting pitches in a spectacular situation. It is well above the clutches of the tide during calm and moderate seas. 'Very Difficult' is the traditional grade although we have nudged that up to HVD. Some would not argue with Severe since some pitches are serious for both leader and second. For those confident at the grade, pitches can be easily combined. Start at a wide crack at the base of the first buttress on the right (looking out) of the approach.
1) 16m. Climb the crack and its continuation above a wide break to a large ledge. Belay at its back, below a corner-crack.
2) 4a, 9m. The 'Elbow Crack'. Climb the fine, well-protected corner-crack to a belay next to a tilted block that forms a slab.
3) 15m. Climb the centre of the slab to its top. Drop down, cross a wide gap and move up to belay below a short wall.
4) 6m. Climb the short wall up cracks to a good ledge and belay.
5) 12m. Move right to the base of a wide chimney and bridge up this until it is possible to transfer to the landward wall of the chimney. Climb the wall until a final pull up right gains a belay. © Rockfax

FA. Royal Marines 1946.

Ticklists

UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , UK Sandbags , 2020/21 Trips , I want a Pasty! , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Diffs To Deck Off

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User Date Notes
aj_carter 25 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Onsight simulclimbed with Luke. 22 mins total.
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βeta: Onsight simulclimbed with Luke. 22 mins total.
Alan James - Rockfax 23 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Can split into 5 pitches without too much rope drag providing the team are well balanced. P1 and P2, P3 and P4, P5 on its own, P6 and P7, P8. P1 is two pitches in some guides although that is pointless but will bump these numbers on.
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βeta: Can split into 5 pitches without too much rope drag providing the team are well balanced. P1 and P2, P3 and P4, P5 on its own, P6 and P7, P8. P1 is two pitches in some guides although that is pointless but will bump these numbers on.
laurarjhowe 9 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loads of fun!
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βeta: Loads of fun!
Rosa M W 20 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: about VD 4c
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βeta: about VD 4c
JohnHutch 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but in places way harder than V diff!
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βeta: Great route, but in places way harder than V diff!
mountainremedy 13 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of broken glass in the gully at the base of pitch 7 disappointingly.
βeta?
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βeta: Lots of broken glass in the gully at the base of pitch 7 disappointingly.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 203
Votes cast 189
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ledge Climb

Grade: HVD ***
(Bosigran)

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