85m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous route that is packed with plenty of interesting pitches and spectacular situations. The climb also benefits from being well above the clutches of the tide during calm and moderate seas. Some of the pitches are serious for both leader and second and care is needed with protection. Start at a wide crack at the base of the buttress.
1) 16m. Climb the wide crack and its continuation above a wide break to a large ledge. Belay at its back, below a corner-crack.
2) 9m. The 'Elbow Crack'. Climb the fine, well-protected corner-crack to a belay next to a tilted block that forms a slab.
3) 15m. Climb the centre of the slab to its top. Drop down, cross a wide gap and move up to belay below a short wall with a crack in it.
4) 6m. Climb the short wall via cracks to a good ledge and belay.
5) 12m. Move right to the base of a wide chimney and bridge up this until it is possible to transfer to the landward wall of the chimney. Climb the wall until a final pull up right gains a good belay.
6) 10m. Move down and across to a wall that must be traversed right via a short but precarious move into the base of a large gully and belay.
7) 10m. Traverse right again around a rib to a ledge and then climb the short steep cracks to another good ledge and belay below a lichen-covered wall - 'The Green Face'.
8) 7m. 'The Green Face'. Climb the steep lichen-covered wall above the stance to the top via a left-trending weakness. A tough pitch at the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Royal Marines 1946.


UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , UK Sandbags , 2020/21 Trips , I want a Pasty! , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett


User Date Notes
Rosa M W 20 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: about VD 4c
Show beta
βeta: about VD 4c
JohnHutch 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but in places way harder than V diff!
Show beta
βeta: Great route, but in places way harder than V diff!
mountainremedy 13 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of broken glass in the gully at the base of pitch 7 disappointingly.
Show beta
βeta: Lots of broken glass in the gully at the base of pitch 7 disappointingly.

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Votes cast 181
Votes cast 171
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face

Grade: VD ***
(Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point)

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