Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 241m a.s.l
Faces SW
Barry Rawlinson 'Breaking the Law', 1st ascent. © dillon_archer
Crag features
This is really three crags; the quarry (which has a number of faces), Skyline Buttress, a natural crag (some of which overlooks the quarry) that is in the wood up and to the left, and Crag X which is 450m further North through the woods (however this buttress is best approached from Stainforth).
Skyline and the quarry are approached from the ample parking place below the quarry.
Approach to Skyline is through the woods following a steep path up the left edge of the left quarry. The rock at Skyline is generally excellent flaky/pocketed linestone leading to fingery climbing. Less sound rock in the quarry is generally ok and off-vertical. Balance climbing tends to be the order of the day. The trad climbs in the quarry are often 'stimulating'.
Skyline has been further bolted since the Rockfax guide came out and all of the main routes can now be considered sport climbs.
Approach notes
It should be assumed both are covered by the same bird ban at certain times of the year (see BMC RAD). The ban starts on 1st March and goes on until 15th July though it is sometimes lifted early if the birds do not hatch chicks - a notice is usually found at the car park.
Park at the business park car park below the crag, don't follow the pin to above the crag.
NB Crag X is 300m further North of where Left Buttress is indicated on the map and is best approached from the footpath from Stainforth dropping down a short gulley before the stile onto the top.
Crag X coordinates are SD 82503 66805, or what3words ///genetics.including.encourage. Please could the crag moderator add this point to the map.
Left Buttress is 150m hundred metres North of Skyline buttress moving across difficult and loose ground through the woods.
Access Advice
Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.
Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Bird restrictions apply to the whole crag for this period
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Paul Clarke and Malcolm Townsley