A superb crag of sharp Limestone. Routes start about grade 5 and go up to 8a+.
3 of the easier routes are short (15m) and 3 more of almost 30m at up to 6a. The longer routes have extensions too, either bring an 80m rope (which is only just enough!) or do in 2 pitches
Most recent guide is the excellent Costa Blanca Climbs by Roberto Lopez (2020).
Setting is lovely, very tranquil. Looses the winter sun about 4pm
From the CV-752 Castell de Castells to Tarbena road, turn off at a small sign for Can Sueno, follow this surfaced track downhill through the terraces to a small parking area on the right, this is immediately before a newly concreted section of road heading more steeply downhill. Continue on foot, downhill to the end of the concrete lane, the crag will now be visible on the left, a small path goes through the Almond / Olive grove to the base.
An easy 10 minute walk down the concrete lane and a not so easy return walk back up to the car
Alternative approach (the fun way in)
From the parking, follow a small track opposite the parking area, rising for a short way before descending to an abandoned building project. Go left here to descend more steeply on a vague track leading into a canyon. Once on the riverbed head downstream. There are numerous abseil stations and scrambling sections and the scenery is wonderful. The longest abseil is 20m. The crag is at the exit from the canyon. Allow an extra hour for this approach. Like most canyons in the area, this is usually dry. Avoid during / after heavy rain.