Climbs 2
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 48m a.s.l
Faces NE
The Bec de L'Aigle (beak of the eagle) is a dramatic pinnacle with a twisted vertical wall on one side and a smooth dome on the other, where the equipped routes pass.
From parking Mugel, walk down to the beach and across the head of the little bay and into the Parc du Mugel (free entry, check opening times on destinationlaciotat.com). Climb up through the park and up the rounded ridge to the base of the 'ipluvium' - a low wall on the shape of a large chevron on the rock face used to direct rainwater.
Turn left and follow the edge of a wooded area, until a red dash indicates where to enter the wood and descend a small gorge with a steep wall on the left. Leaving the trees, continue increasingly steeply down the little gorge. Just when it becomes uncomfortable, a bolt appears on the left. Follow the line of 4 or 5 bolts on a rightwards traverse to reach an abseil point at the side of a deep gully. A shortish but awkward abseil leads to the base of the gully, then follow another line of 4-5 bolts to the right about past a small cave to reach a tree. On the right wall is the belay for L'Atelier Bleu, to the left behind the tree is the start of Piste Noire.
The easiest way is via the main entrance to Parc du Mugel, but if it is closed it is possible to walk across the top of the series of beaches, following the outside of the wall of the park until it ends and then entering.
The guardian of the park has been known to claim that climbing is forbidden and has even put up signs to that effect. However we have been assured that the mayor of Ciotat has stated that climbing is definitely allowed.
There are no comments from visitors to this crag. |
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