Climbs 74
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces NW
Sweet Revenge © Jonny Tee 69
Crag features
The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.
Due to low traffic, some walls have become overgrown. The walls that only dry out in very dry conditions are particularly badly affected. Babylon Buttress especially.
"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+).
Approach notes
Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.
At the moment limited parking is still allowed at the entrance to quarry Cottage. Say 3-4 cars max are tolerated by the owner. The new owners are friendly and still allow parking but please be respectful of the privilege and their privacy.
if necessary parking is available in Friockheim and car sharing from there if people are arriving in ones or twos and meeting up into a group.
There is a wide verge on the main road but this would be slightly hazardous due to vehicle speeds coming down the brae and round the blind bend.
No Access Issues
No issues.
Access involves walking past the entrance of a private house/property. If you use this access please be respectful and avoid excessive parking on their property and walk throught quietly.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer sheppy