Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Sweet Revenge © Jonny Tee 69
The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.
Due to low traffic, some walls are permanently damp and overgrown .
"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+).
Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.
There isn't any particular parking near the quarry. A common place is along the B961 beyond the entrance to Middleton estate, then walk down the A933 and descend to the quarry via a slippery path.
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