Climbs 74
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Sweet Revenge © Jonny Tee 69

Crag features

The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

Due to low traffic, some walls have become overgrown. The walls that only dry out in very dry conditions are particularly badly affected. Babylon Buttress especially.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+).

Approach notes

Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

At the moment limited parking is still allowed at the entrance to quarry Cottage. Say 4-5 cars are tolerated by the owner. However this may change as at time of writing (April 2024) the cottage is up for sale.

There is a wide verge on the main road but this would be slightly hazardous due to vehicle speeds coming down the brae and round the blind bend. 

No Access Issues

No issues. 
Access involves walking past the entrance of a private house/property. If you use this access please be respectful and avoid excessive parking on their property and walk throught quietly. 

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Climbs at this crag

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