Restricted Access

Quarries 1,2 and 3 are owned by the Wills Estate and no formal agreement for climbing is in place.

Quarries 4 and 5 are owned by the National Trust, climbers are asked to have civil liability insurance when climbing here. 

Nightingale Valley and Burwalls Cave - climbing is not permitted. 

Crossing the railway line or climbing routes on railway land (Railway Tunnel Walls) constitutes criminal trespass - don't do it.

Quarry 4 occasionally sees nesting peregrines, please check the RAD for updates. 

45m, 2 pitches. Graded 6a in guide but 2nd pitch probably deserves 6b. Careful with route finding too, the right way shouldn't be that loose.

A surprisingly amenable and airy escapade with a nicely consistent top pitch. Start at the large lime-green blob of graffiti.
1 25m F6a [6B] Follow Thirty-nine Year War up over its initial bulge to easy ground at the base of a white scoop. Step up and clip the bolt in the narrow borehole then go diagonally right and up onto the broad ledge. Traverse right (as for A Song for the Shadows) to its double 12mm ring belay station.
2 20m F6b [8B] Move up slightly leftwards from the belay onto a projecting resting foot hold and follow the short borehole above to an open resting ledge on the right (all as for A Song for the Shadows). Traverse back left and reach around for a large, hidden layaway then continue straight up to a resting scoop on the right. A short easy section now leads to an exposed final bulge; swing out left under the final bolt with some celebratory trickiness to reach the double 12mm ring abseil station.

Gordon A Jenkin, Brian (Blob) Wyvill 11/May/2015.


Quarry 3 Challenge , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol


User Date Notes
PaulJepson 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A toaster-sized jug on p1 is loose. Makes it trickier to not use.
Show beta
βeta: A toaster-sized jug on p1 is loose. Makes it trickier to not use.
harrylusted 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock up top!
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock up top!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Leigh Woods

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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
New Andy Test Add

Grade: 6b ***

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