Restricted Access
Quarries 1,2 and 3 are owned by the Wills Estate and no formal agreement for climbing is in place.
Quarries 4 and 5 are owned by the National Trust, climbers are asked to have civil liability insurance when climbing here.
Nightingale Valley and Burwalls Cave - climbing is not permitted.
Crossing the railway line or climbing routes on railway land (Railway Tunnel Walls) constitutes criminal trespass - don't do it.
Quarry 4 occasionally sees nesting peregrines, please check the RAD for updates.
15m.
Now recleaned and reclimbed since the loss of the gigantic flake. The start was above soft ground but is now above the tilted rock platform that is formed by the flake which looks like a leg breaker, fortunately there is some good gear, a largish cam and an in-situ thread up on the left which will stop a ground fall from the moves off the slanting ledge.
From the pegs swing up rightwards and use the crack to the right of the small rib to pull up to the small Overhang. It is possible to rest here and place some excellent wires. Pull through to a large flat hold and make hard moves across left and up into the superb shallow groove.
Overall not too bold and the moves through the “lost flake” section are not that hard so E6 6b overall.
From the pegs swing up rightwards and use the crack to the right of the small rib to pull up to the small Overhang. It is possible to rest here and place some excellent wires. Pull through to a large flat hold and make hard moves across left and up into the superb shallow groove.
Overall not too bold and the moves through the “lost flake” section are not that hard so E6 6b overall.
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Route of Interest
Weapons of Mass Distraction
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Backhill Point)