Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 162m a.s.l
Alex Gorham cutting loose on Gordon Bombay © Cody Cox
Featuring compact sandstone this crag is split into 2 sections - Lover's Leap Roof and Dark Side Blocs. With climbs ranging from font 4 to 7c with open projects still avaliable, this crag provides something for all. Boulder Scotland 3rd edition: A Stone Country Bouldering Guide (2017) has details of all of the climbs, and is avaliable from Amazon here.
Easily acccessible with car or by bus. 25 min walk from parking on good paths.
By car - From the East - Drive through Lennoxtown, turning off at the mini roundabout to Park at 55.980073, -4.221481,
By bus - The X85 bus runs regularly from Buchannan Bus Station, with a two minute walk to the path at 55.980073, -4.221481
Once there, follow the small path by the river till you hit a wider path up the hill to the castle. Note that the path loops up the hill to the left before curving right to the castle. Walk round the castle to the right slightly and a small but obvious path goes off to the right. Follow this to 'Lover's Leap' (marked with a green post and arrow) to the right, which is a viewing point with iron railings on three sides, just below this is the crag which is well hidden from the path.
Crag itself is at 55.976795, 4.240872. or NS 60247 78259 on OS Map app shows the correct paths.
Access is down quite a steep slope that's quite muddy with limited flat space once you get there.
Not really suitable for small children or pets as there are further drop-offs immediately below.
More background info on the crag are avaliable here. but note that the sketch map is not completely accurate.
|This was a good little find on a dog-walk this weekend. Crag is pretty hidden from the path and needs a wee scramble down a steep slope to access the crag. Plenty of potential here for some top-roped climbing as well as the boulder problems listed as the main crags are quite high (7-8m?). Lots of big trees to anchor from up above. Will definitely come back with more time (and more tools) to clean and climb.|
drconline - 21/Oct/19
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