500m, 17 pitches.
5c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 4c, 4b, 2b, 4b, 5b, 3b, 5b, 5c, _, 3c, 4a, 3c, 4a.
Option to scramble / climb to the 2nd summit, after an abseil down the back.
Descent is by a series of abseils off the back and then a path back down to the hut.
Option to scramble / climb to the 2nd summit, after an abseil down the back.
Descent is by a series of abseils off the back and then a path back down to the hut.
Hubert Jaillet, Sylvain, Catherine, JM Cambon 1990.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| spudlet70 | 19 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy approach from refuge - about 30/40 minutes…obvious start (white tat). First pitches are probably more like 6a but the climbing is ace. Can link pitch 3 and 4 with 50’s. Route finding pretty straight forward up to the top of the first tower (I was a tall friend here). Send your tallest climber last to get round the top of tower one and onto the belay. From here the climbing is easy but loose, follow your nose and you’ll find the bolts. Need to be happy soloing S or take some mid wires and cams. Easy abseils back down to the cow deck. First 2 straight forward but loose, try and stay out of the firing line when pulling ropes. To find the last 2…walk up and over the bulge, then head to the 2 massive boulders under the niche of tower 2 in the gully, cross the gulley nest to them and go down and right to the abseil (this info wpuld have been most useful to us, so it’s here for you). 2 more good but loose abseils lead you to the floor. From here walk over the snow or use the tat (right of the end of the ab looking in) to cross the snow on ab. Descent - contour across away from route staying at same height until you cross the stream that runs down the right (looking at it) of the massive spur (obvious). From here go down right to the top of the descent path. Occasional cairns. Approach and descent fine in trail runners if there is no snow. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Easy approach from refuge - about 30/40 minutes…obvious start (white tat). First pitches are probably more like 6a but the climbing is ace. Can link pitch 3 and 4 with 50’s. Route finding pretty straight forward up to the top of the first tower (I was a tall friend here). Send your tallest climber last to get round the top of tower one and onto the belay. From here the climbing is easy but loose, follow your nose and you’ll find the bolts. Need to be happy soloing S or take some mid wires and cams. Easy abseils back down to the cow deck. First 2 straight forward but loose, try and stay out of the firing line when pulling ropes. To find the last 2…walk up and over the bulge, then head to the 2 massive boulders under the niche of tower 2 in the gully, cross the gulley nest to them and go down and right to the abseil (this info wpuld have been most useful to us, so it’s here for you). 2 more good but loose abseils lead you to the floor. From here walk over the snow or use the tat (right of the end of the ab looking in) to cross the snow on ab. Descent - contour across away from route staying at same height until you cross the stream that runs down the right (looking at it) of the massive spur (obvious). From here go down right to the top of the descent path. Occasional cairns. Approach and descent fine in trail runners if there is no snow. |
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Route of Interest
Super Michele
Grade: D+ ***
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