IV, 650m, 10 - 12 hours. A fantastic crack climb up a very impressive face! The bottom slab has been bolted but the rest of the route is a trad climb.
1) Begin by scrambling in from the left on broken ledges until reaching the line of bolts.
2) 5c. Follow the line of bolts for 5 pitches (5c, 5b, 5c, 4b, 4c) to reach the large ledge system visible from the ground.
3) 5c. Almost directly above where you enter the ledge system, climb a short corner crack and follow a vague ramp system out left, climbing a corner before moving back right along another ledge system to a belay below a large left-facing corner.
4) 6b. Climb the steep 40m corner crack.
5) 6b. From here follow the crack system for roughly 4 pitches. These pitches follow excellent steep, strenuous cracks and vary from 5c - 6b. Some of the belays are bolted.
6) 5c. Once you hit a ledge system, trend round to the right and climb a corner crack (old bongs still in place from the first ascent) and follow the crack above to easier ground.
6) 5a. Follow easy ground to underneath a huge corner. Climb up this to a ledge that leads out right.
7) 5c. Follow a corner and then chimney on the right of the ledge up to reach the large jammed block. There is a possible bivvi site here.
8) 6c+. The main event - the large dihedral! Climb a short easier pitch to gain a belay below the steeper ground. Then follow the corner crack for two pitches (6c, 6c+). This is stunning climbing in an amazing situation. It is also pretty strenuous! At the top of the corner, exit on the right to slabbier ground.
9) A1. From the belay, move up and left on slabby ground to the line of rusty pitons that leads out left across the steep wall. Aid your way across this trying to ignore how old the pitons are to reach a large ledge on The North Face (p.126). This makes a great bivvi site.
10) From here, either abseil the route or continue up The North Face (p.126). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent route on sound rock but for the chimney pitch below the Jammed Block.
Below the 90m corner it has not been affected by the rockfall, but the lower slabs are still a dangerous place to be on daytime.
From the top of the 90m corner is possible to do an A1 traverse and reach the N Face route, thus avoiding the top pitches which run next to the rockfall and is said to have loads of loose rock.
It is also possible to rap straight down from the same point.
Royal Robbins and Gary Hemming 26/Jul/1962.
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