III, 700m. The great route up the South Face of the Dru which cuts an intricate line to the summit of the Grand Dru taking in some superb granite climbing in wild positions. The top half, up the upper pillar is particularly good.
1) 4a. Follow the large ledge system (marked by cairns). Once into the large bowl, ascend up and right to the base of the route which is marked by a steep, vertical wall cut by two parallel cracks with a gully on the right.
2) 6a. Climb the parallel cracks past multiple pegs.
3) 5c. Head right and climb slabs above.
4) 5a. Climb the corner and then take the easiest ground to where the ground becomes less steep.
5) 3c. Weave your way up easy ground between ledge systems to the top of the buttress in roughly three rope lengths.
6) 3c. Climb down into the Couloir des Drus and cross this to two large blocks and climb up behind them.
7) 3c. Traverse left along a quartz ledge to get to a gully. Climb up the gully. Once out the gully climb up and right round some large boulders.
8) 5c. Climb a corner and then follow a crack up and left. Once below a small roof, move back right From here, follow cracks up to a ledge system below the Trident.
9) 5a. Climb through a window in the ridgeline to gain terraces behind the Trident. Follow these out right and up a series of small steps to get to a chimney. Climb this and exit on the right.
10) 5c. Climb the short corner and then two successively easier corners beyond. This gets you to a gravelly terrace.
11) 3a. Follow the ledges up and right up some blocky ground, up a vague couloir until below an overhang on the right.
12) 4c. Follow an atmospheric traverse line out right below the roof to gain ledges. Climb a series of corners up and right until the ground becomes steeper.
13) 6b. Climb the steep wall that is quite strenuous for 50m up grooves and cracks (pegs), passing a short overlap early on.
14) 3c. Follow easy ground to the crest of the ridge and follow this to the summit of the Grand Dru. © Rockfax
FA. A.Contamine, M.Bastien 30.6.1952 30/Jun/1952.
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