UKC

450m, 14 pitches. The start of the route is marked with a commemorative plaque for Bruno Martel, put up by his children. Bring 11 draws + something for the belays (two bolts, no chains).
P1. 6b. 30m. Quite runout on average rock.
P2. 5a 30m. Go straight up 20m then traverse the rockband left for 10m. A bolt on the left visible.
P3. 6a 30m.
P4. 6a+ 30m. Straight up the dihedral on good holds.
P5. 6c 40m. Thin slab.
P6. 6b+ 40m. Slightly to the right. First a tricky slab then steeper towards the top.
P7. 5b 15m. Leave the niche and step out right. Up to a thin wide ledge. Take the belay on the left. The belay on the right is for Elsa.
P8. 6a+ 40m. A boulderproblem leaving the belay, then easy up the ramp.
P9. 6c 45m. Up the dihedral, then a rising traverse leftwards. Some mandatory 6b+ climbing between the bolts.
P10. 6b 30m. Traverse left at the top.
P11 6c+ 45m. Runout 6b climbing with a tricky sequence on top. 6b/c mandatory.
P12. 6c 30m. Very well protected boulder problem on the conglomerate band.
P13. 6a+ 50m. Leave the cave on the left side, then diagonally right up to a big ledge. 13 draws if you clip everything, but it is possible to shuffle draws in the start. Optional belay in a tree halfway up.
P14 3b 20m. Traverse the ledge leftwards until it ends, then climb an easy slab (1bolt) to the top.

Bruno Martel, Bruno Béatrix Aug/1987.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende , Euro Alpine Rock , Paroi de Légende (New & Old)

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User Date Notes
jwi 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 6c+ (6b+ obligatory) sous LA griffe DE lucifer. Griffe is feminine, it is Lucifer's Hold, thus "de lucifer".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 6c+ (6b+ obligatory) sous LA griffe DE lucifer. Griffe is feminine, it is Lucifer's Hold, thus "de lucifer".

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
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Route of Interest
Voie de la Grand Mere

Grade: TD+ ***
(Tête Noire (Vallon de la Moulette))

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