Climbs 246
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1114m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Carillo-Cantabella - Leyva 5+ *** © Matt1234

Crag features

A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks Leyva, a major venue that is well worth a visit. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance with 60 major routes; the main face being a 150 metre high, south-facing wall of great rock. The early routes here were done in traditional style originally but all the best climbs are now fully bolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quickdraws and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter, and just use a single rope, it is possible to walk off the right-hand side of the cliff. Down and right of the main cliff there are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch sport climbs across a range of difficulty, the Sectors de la Cueva and Pecera.

The cliff faces south and is a great winter venue; it is possible to climb on the face in T-shirts whilst the hollows are filled with frost. If there is a wind blowing then you won't get much shelter on the high face. Summers are usually too hot as all the cliffs face almost due south.

Approach notes

Follow the motorway south from Alicante, round Murcia (80km) then continue southwards for another 22km to a turn off that runs into the town of Alhama de Murcia. Turn right in the centre of town onto the C3315 (signs for Mula) and follow this to a left turn about 6km from the edge of town signed 'El Berro 7.5km'. (Straight on is also signed to 'El Berro' but is 10km). Drive steeply uphill to a turning on the right to El Berro but continue straight for 3 kms. Turn right onto a tarmac road with white Regional Park signs. After 200m go right again onto good dirt road (Regional Park signs). Continue to the parking area after 1km. Take main track past green gates. The cliffs are a 30-50 minute walk up the main track. 

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Out of print:
Costa Blanca (2005)
Fantastic crag 91 routes 100 - 200m long mixture of trad, semi bolted and fully bolted sport routes.
mike sh - 29/Mar/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer dannyboy83

Loading Notifications...