UKC

3 pitches. Round to the right-hand side of the crag a short wall with an overlap leading rightwards to a soaring arete is visible high up (it was the only thing that looked dry when we arrived). P1. Scramble up vertical heather and a slimy corner to a ledge below a couple of short rock steps (S). P2. Climb the two rock steps to belay in the bay below the overlap (4c). Note: On the first ascent, a fridge sized tower of apparently solid rubble gave way as I went to mantle on it, luckily on second - better climb the moist slab to the right of the remaining rubble. P3. The main pitch: Smear up a short tricky corner to gain the overlap. Perfect hand jams lead right beneath the overlap to a delightful, triangular ledge beneath the soaring arete. Climb the arete directly or on it's left-hand side with good cams before mantling onto the upper ledges (it may be possible to traverse round right of the arete onto an easier slab if pumped or scared). Topout: Scramble out to the summit and run round to climb another route, which may now have dried out in the sun.

FA 02/Oct/2020.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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User Date Notes
Dan Moore 16 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Approach loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Approach loose.

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Route of Interest
Return of the Jedi

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Meall an Fhir-Eoin)

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