UKC

Climbs 405
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
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John Pullin climbing a classic problem (Font 4) at Hidden Cove, Portland © Ben Thorne

Crag features

This area has now become the haunt of the deep water soloist, however dotted along the cliff-line are some sport routes that are very different in style to those found elsewhere on the Isle. Most of the better climbs - both sport and DWS - are hard and very steep and require good conditions and favourable tides. Sector Pom Pom is a delightful little bay that contains a frozen wave of grit-like stone, pitted with infrequent pockets; the climbs being in the style of extended boulder problems. The rest of the Lighthouse Cliffs are composed of an intriguing labyrinth of caves, ledges and tunnels that are worth exploring for their scenic value alone.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See here for video.

Approach notes

All of the areas are best approached from the Portland Bill car park (fee).

R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

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