UKC

Restricted Access

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 25 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Crescent Buttress, Upper and Lower Craig Pen Gogarth, St. Tudno's Lower are subject to seasonal restrictions.

Observatory Buttress and Central Buttress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.

30m. The middle of the three 7s here, and the hardest! Starts one up from Restless mind, or one down from the cave. Fun starts immediately with the first crux. Two more will get you to the chains!

Dave Lyon, Norman Clacher 11/Nov/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Albachoss 24 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very chossy up to the top crux then ok. Jug out right makes it significantly easier, stay direct for technical groovy climbing to the anchor
Show beta
βeta: Very chossy up to the top crux then ok. Jug out right makes it significantly easier, stay direct for technical groovy climbing to the anchor
Steve Long 25 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A gripper clipper or a preplaced quickdraw helps just above the first crux, where some blocks have obviously been removed and the rock is a bit iffy. Stay left of this stuff on good holds, but the proximity of loose stuff is intimidating here.
Show beta
βeta: A gripper clipper or a preplaced quickdraw helps just above the first crux, where some blocks have obviously been removed and the rock is a bit iffy. Stay left of this stuff on good holds, but the proximity of loose stuff is intimidating here.
Steve Long 25 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't see how to finish the final move direct, but spotted a jug out right, (which I had also used on "Live forever"), and rocked back left. It worked, but maybe I missed a direct solution...?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't see how to finish the final move direct, but spotted a jug out right, (which I had also used on "Live forever"), and rocked back left. It worked, but maybe I missed a direct solution...?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lighthouse Crags

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Battleground

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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