12m.
A bouldery start up to a slot 3m left of Ivy League groove, continue up small crimps on the face until the top break where you rejoin The Charleston and Ivy League.
Gear is very fiddly including opposing nut placements in one of the breaks.
Gear is very fiddly including opposing nut placements in one of the breaks.
C.Mackie & D.Bramboek 05/Jun/2011.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kieran James Cunningham | 1 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Delighted to get this one. Started out shunting it for training and after a few clean burns started to think it might be doable, but was still unsure if I’d like to try the lead. Came back a few days later with a partner and did a safe “trial run” lead placing gear to the right (on Ivy League) to see how the crux would feel without a rope above me. Felt fine (ish!) so abbed to retrieve gear and tied back in for the real thing (no gear to the right, iffy and awkward placements until above the crux). Had the moves sussed by then but it was still pretty scary! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Delighted to get this one. Started out shunting it for training and after a few clean burns started to think it might be doable, but was still unsure if I’d like to try the lead. Came back a few days later with a partner and did a safe “trial run” lead placing gear to the right (on Ivy League) to see how the crux would feel without a rope above me. Felt fine (ish!) so abbed to retrieve gear and tied back in for the real thing (no gear to the right, iffy and awkward placements until above the crux). Had the moves sussed by then but it was still pretty scary! |
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Route of Interest
The Iron Fist
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Limekilns)