Hong Kong Rock Description
75m. This is the one route everyone should climb in Hong Kong. Two contrasting hard pitches, and plenty of exposure in-between so expect queues on the weekend. Start early rather than arrive late and complain! The route originally climbed a grassy traditionally protected ramp for the first pitch however it now uses Prelude instead.
Attention: rope signals should be prearranged for this pitch, as communication can be difficult.
1) 5a - 22m - 7 Bolts. Scramble above the belay, past a few trees to a wall. Climb onto a small ledge, shuffle right then up to a flakeline trending right to belay on a small ledge at the base of the right hand corner.
2) 6a+ - 12m - 8 Bolts. Climb the sustained right-hand corner crack directly above the belay.
3) 5c - 13m - 6 Bolts. Traverse right across the bay and climb the steep wall in a very exposed position (cautious photo opportunity) before pulling onto a wide terrace. Clip a bolt high in the leaning wall to protect the second and stroll across to a belay at the far side.
Warning: ensure you clip the bolt in the leaning wall for this protects the second climber. If the leaning wall bolt is not clipped and the second climber falls off they will pendulum the entire face below the terrace potentially resulting in a cut rope and fatality.
4) 6a+ - 28m - 13 Bolts. Step out right from the belay and climb the wall to a small strip overlap, move right and pass the blank section past the tree to better holds. Follow the groove above to an awkward ledge mantle that is the end of difficulties. Easy climbing leads to the summit and a double-bolt belay. © Hong Kong Rock

UKC Logbook Description
This is the one route everyone should climb in Hong Kong so expect queues on the weekend. Start early rather than arrive late and complain! The route originally climbed a grassy traditionally protected ramp for the first pitch however it now uses Prelude instead.

P1 F5
P2 F6a+
P3 F5+
P4 F6a+

Gerwalt Pichler, Tim Brown 1991.

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