UKC

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All bolts on the East Face and the final pitch of Gweilo were chopped during protest banner removal in 2020. 

120m, 8 pitches.

Hong Kong Rock Description
120m. Inspired by Hong Kong developer Brian Boyd's fondness for girdle traverses. The line intentionally avoids most of Gweilo while traversing large sections of the West Face and an airy traverse across the East Face. This is a big day out so start early and ensure your chalk bag is full!
1) 6b - 17m - 10 Bolts. Climb Henry's Walk to the lower-off chains then continue slightly above to a double- bolt belay on a sloping ledge.
2) 5a - 20m - 8 Bolts. Climb above the belay then traverse diagonally right to the bolt belay of Gweilo / Prelude. Continue right, behind the tree, onto rock and traverse right onto a large flake and to the bolt belay of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof.
3) 6b+ - 10m - 6 Bolts. Climb Cats and Dogs Pitch 2. Step right off the belay ledge to clip a bolt on the rib above then continue right into the groove / ramp line, making technically confronting moves to exit over bulging rock onto a small ledge and double-bolt belay.
4) 6a+ - 17m - 7 Bolts. Climb the continuation of Jet Roar. From the belay, follow the awkward right hand crack line above to exit onto a slab and
rising rightward traverse to the bolt belay on the slab of Firecracker. Continue up to the steep wall and traverse left across the large slab, below the starts of Firecracker and Hello Kitty, to the chain bolt belay of Cat and Mouse.
5) 6c - 20m - 9 Bolts. Climb Cat and Mouse to the Gweilo bolt belay.
6) 6b+ - 12m - 7 Bolts. A spectacular, exposed pitch climbing across previously unclimbed rock. Clip the first bolt on Gweilo (the glue-in bolt above the belay) with a sling then traverse right from the belay in an exposed position to join The Power of Love to the belay but continue on around the arete to belay from The Balance of Power.
7) 6b+ - 12m - 6 Bolts. ‘Fly on the wall' traversing across the East Face. Traverse horizontally right from the belay along a horizontal break to gain the ledge of Tigger. Mantle up onto the ledge (being careful of the large block) and move right to a double-bolt belay.
8) 6a - 12m - 6 Bolts. Climb the upper section of Austrian Staircase Pitch 2. © Hong Kong Rock

UKC Logbook Description
The line intentionally avoids most of Gweilo while traversing large sections of the West Face and an airy traverse across the East Face.

P1 F6b
P2 F5
P3 F6b+
P4 F6a+
P5 F6c
P6 F6b+
P7 F6b+
P8 F6a

Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/Apr/2020.

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Route of Interest
Jet Roar

Grade: 6c ***
(Lion Rock)

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