Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Llangattock escarpment © soveda

Crag features

The most popular part of Llangattock. Routes up to 42m, best being Passage of Time (E1 5b**), Cry Havoc (E2 5c**), More Fool You (E4 6a**).

Approach notes

From the car park for the main area, take the track to the RH edge of the eastern edge (small ruin). Here take the R fork in the track to te Pinnacle bay of this section.

No Access Issues

An extensive escarpment - part quarried in a scenic position overlooking Crickhowell. The vast majority of the routes are very adventurous and traditional. Many are typical of their type. After a meeting of local climbers, the BMC South Wales Area passed a vote that the crag would remain as a traditional venue with leader placed protection and would not be developed as a sports climbing venue. It was agreed that at some time in the future (and depending on landowner consent), some agreed sections could be equiped with bolted lower offs avoid the need to top out onto loose muddy slopes. Some of these routes have now been equipped with lower offs (see 2020 Gilwern Guide). There are belay stakes in place at some locations. Users are advised that the landowner has not agreed to the  placing of any belay stakes and takes no responsibility for their suitability as climbing anchors.  


A lovely setting - great views of the Black mountains. Found that all the lines we tried were very dirty and had loads of loose rock. Some good lines but a lot of the rock is weak and friable - topping out can be difficult and there is a lack of belay possibilities at the top. Would suggest trying to ab down routes before doing them to clean and remove loose rock. Lastly lots of biting midges - until wind blows them off. Worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous:-)
evhall - 12/Jun/16
Spectacular setting, beautiful location. Rock is dense and blocky in places. Most, if not all, of the easier routes (Diff-Sev) have been trashed beyond belief by outdoor centres. I have never seen polish so bad. Apparently even the outdoor centres don't go there anymore as the routes are too trashed even for them. i.e. if you are thinking of this location as somewhere to start leading, look elsewhere. Anything above severe appears OK though.
John_Hat - 28/Aug/07
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