UKC

Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

Leading Old Shep © Lee Davies (Sniffer)

Crag features

A long escarpment - extends for 3mi along the valley overlooking Crickhowell. Mostly old limestone quarries, generally solid. Exposed and cold when windy, pleasant if calm and sunny. Routes up to 43m, notable for Liberator (E3 6a) and Roaring Eighties (E5 6a).

Approach notes

Off the A465 take a lane opposite the Corn Exchange Inn past Llanelly church. Over cattle grid, steep turn R onto road following hillside. Follow for 1mi to track that forks L, below the edge: follow the track to car park on the L.

No Access Issues

An extensive escarpment - part quarried in a scenic position overlooking Crickhowell. The vast majority of the routes are very adventurous and traditional. Many are typical of their type. After a meeting of local climbers, the BMC South Wales Area passed a vote that the crag would remain as a traditional venue with leader placed protection and would not be developed as a sports climbing venue. It was agreed that at some time in the future (and depending on landowner consent), some agreed sections could be equiped with bolted lower offs avoid the need to top out onto loose muddy slopes. Some of these routes have now been equipped with lower offs (see 2020 Gilwern Guide). There are belay stakes in place at some locations. Users are advised that the landowner has not agreed to the  placing of any belay stakes and takes no responsibility for their suitability as climbing anchors.  

 

Esoteric crag for the adventurous where trad routes prevail over the safety of bolts. Fantastic surroundings, memorable routes with some big leads. If you like the safety of bolt clipping please look elsewhere.
Lee Davies (Sniffer) - 22/Jul/14
A crag of "national importance"??? !!!!Complete tosh,more like an outdated oasis of choss in the back of beyond.At least the locals could get round to banging in some stakes or sticking in some LO's on selected routes.
freelunchprovider - 22/Nov/13
with regards to the 'land owner' they have been cautioned by the police for stopping people from going up there and abusing people, so all is good, plus if your part of the BMC pull out your card if they give you grief and they get scared as they have no idea whit it means
Griff87 - 02/Jun/10
Apart from the bad weather this crag has some very enjoyable climbs. Be aware that there is a lot of loose rock on some of the pitches and cleaning is highly advisable before climbing. I personnaly have had some extremely good days climbing here and up to date have had no trouble with the local farmer(I might be the only one though as he knows me very well. ha!)
Mike - 02/Sep/06
\"Crag of the day!!!!????????\" Yeah just like Beruit is Country of the month or Vauxhall Viva is the car of the year!\" Last thing I head about llangattock - the \"land-owner\" had just bought a new shot-gun - not a joke people. Mate of mine was on an abeil at this crag, derigged his ropes and found that someone had poured wood preserving fluid over them. BMC have had problems with access at this crag for years. Think very carefully before you go. Please dont get necky, if you meet this farmer. I have 2 other storiies about him, but dont know if they are true - if they are STAY WELL AWAY.
Semtex - 02/Jul/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer timjones

Loading Notifications...