UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack system. Excellent technical climbing up this gains a break. Follow the wall above, past a peg, to the broken band of rock. Head directly up this to below a white-stained crack and then step right to below another crack. Step up to reach the crack and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Kerr, P.Stacey 1.6.87 01/Jun/1987. Route name changed (offensive name).

Ticklists

Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes

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User Date Notes
Fiend 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good direct route and exactly right at the grade. Some of the wires are fiddly and cams are useful. The crux is a distinct sequence but other sections maintain interest including the finish.
Show beta
βeta: Good direct route and exactly right at the grade. Some of the wires are fiddly and cams are useful. The crux is a distinct sequence but other sections maintain interest including the finish.
Dim Dringo 19 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Disagree - though gear was absolutely bomb proof except through the easy bit.
Show beta
βeta: Disagree - though gear was absolutely bomb proof except through the easy bit.
a_radiohead_fan 1 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: solid e2. gear is definately hard fought and never felt truely secure but it has two pegs. lovely balancy crux.
Show beta
βeta: solid e2. gear is definately hard fought and never felt truely secure but it has two pegs. lovely balancy crux.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Llanymynech Quarry

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Wall Direct

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llanymynech Quarry)

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