UKC

Rockfax Description
A long line with a steep ending. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
straightforward and pleasant climbing on the lower wall to a superb and very steep finish on jugs. 22m

Gary Gibson April 2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
paulinepavlova 24 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a single-point Monster Hook at the top for lower-off. I had never seen this before, spent some time trying to figure out how to do it without untying from harness first, and couldn\'t figure it out, so just untied (with precautions of course). If you\'d like to know how to do this without untying then read http://www.bolt-products.com/SinglePointLower-offs.htm or https://www.hownot2.com/post/the-book-of-climbing-anchors Would feel a bit cautious about using this to set up toprope even with quickdraws in, with it being single- point as no secondary point in case of failure. So I would say to people if they want to toprope it, perhaps get them to second instead, and climb on the bolted end.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a single-point Monster Hook at the top for lower-off. I had never seen this before, spent some time trying to figure out how to do it without untying from harness first, and couldn't figure it out, so just untied (with precautions of course). If you'd like to know how to do this without untying then read http://www.bolt-products.com/SinglePointLower-offs.htm or https://www.hownot2.com/post/the-book-of-climbing-anchors Would feel a bit cautious about using this to set up toprope even with quickdraws in, with it being single- point as no secondary point in case of failure. So I would say to people if they want to toprope it, perhaps get them to second instead, and climb on the bolted end.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Llanymynech Quarry

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mi Vida

Grade: 6a ***
(Norton Wood)

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