50m.
HVS 5a, 5a, 4c.
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
This is the right arete of the obvious large, brown buttress behind the fence on the approach to cul de sac quarry. Start at a broken down fence and climb up and right on steep scarily loose rock to a steep scarily loose crack. Follow this more easily to a ledge and traverse right to belay by a detached block. Peg and friend belay.
Traverse back left to a short steep groove which is climbed to an obvious ledge system. Traverse left above the void in a wild position (you guessed it, on scarily loose rock)to a brown groove. Climb this (more solid now) to a good nut and friend belay beneath a final overhang.
Climb over the overhang to an easy but scarily loose, finish.
A brilliant adventure in complete contrast to everything else here. Its in the West Mids rock guide at VS.
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Route of Interest
Norton Corner
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Norton Wood)