UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
A long and sustained line up the narrow wall that is set slightly forward from the main section of the wall. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very long route with some hard moves just below half-height and fingery throughout. Unfortunately has a poor start. Note- A 'hole' has opened up just over one of the overlaps after the half-height ledge which wasn't present during the first ascent.At the top, pull left to finish.

Nick Dixon May/2005.

Ticklists

Soft Touches , 2 and 3 star routes in Clwyd

Feedback

User Date Notes
salexc 19 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Sooooo, don't go bailing out into the corner near the top. I did, and pulled a fridge-sized block out pretty effortlessly. It would have killed my belayer twice had my aim been better, luckily at 35m up she had two full seconds to take cover. There's another, bigger block glued in to the left of the chains. Like I say, stay out of the corner...
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βeta: Sooooo, don't go bailing out into the corner near the top. I did, and pulled a fridge-sized block out pretty effortlessly. It would have killed my belayer twice had my aim been better, luckily at 35m up she had two full seconds to take cover. There's another, bigger block glued in to the left of the chains. Like I say, stay out of the corner...
John Kettle 6 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Stay left of the last bolt for the full 7b experience.
βeta?
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βeta: Stay left of the last bolt for the full 7b experience.
SPB86 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Removed the loose block at the start of the crux. Nat flashed it straight away and still thought top end 6c at most. Still OK climbing
βeta?
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βeta: Removed the loose block at the start of the crux. Nat flashed it straight away and still thought top end 6c at most. Still OK climbing
benjaminwhite001 17 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Next time
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βeta: Next time
goi.ashmore 5 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think its not too bad if you are short providing you place your feet precisely. Agree with Lee that its about right at Fr7b
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βeta: I think its not too bad if you are short providing you place your feet precisely. Agree with Lee that its about right at Fr7b
mattjgb 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dirty until the first ledge. Saw a rockfall onto this route August 2006, helmet for belayer might be a good idea.
βeta?
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βeta: Dirty until the first ledge. Saw a rockfall onto this route August 2006, helmet for belayer might be a good idea.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Screaming Skull

Grade: 7b ***
(Llanymynech Quarry)

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