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65m, 2 pitches. Climbs the shallow gully just right of the summer line of Iota to the skylight visible at the top. A good route with an excellent top pitch. Start a couple of metres right of Iota.
1st pitch: 30m. Climb the short steep corner up to a rock bulge. Tricky moves left across slab to the turfy prow. Climb steep turf/snow for 15m to a spike belay. Runnout after the slab.
2nd pitch: 35m. Move right into the gully and follow it to a left facing corner. Excellent climbing on frozen blobs of turf lead up the corner to the skylight.

Pete Harrison / Mark Richards 04/Feb/2009.


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Route of Interest

Western Gully Direct Finish

Grade: V 5 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))