Climbs 34
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Dan Harris on Royal Flush VS+ Llyn Brianne. © ccliff

Crag features

The climbing at Llyn Brianne is located in 4 main areas of the old quarry, that of Entrance Wall and Hangover Buttress, which, respectively, consist of slabby tiers and a distinctive steep brown wall and are passed on the approach road; and then Car Park Quarry and finally the Main Wall which lies above a broad terrace north of the Car Park. The latter wall is some 300m long, 30m high, the upper tiers of which are very loose and vegetated.

The rock quality on the crag varies considerably, the Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall are composed of flaky rock which should be handled with care. The Entrance Wall is a harder, more compact but rather shattered rock. The best rock is found on Hangover Buttress. Most of the rock is Silurian turbidite which shows layers of clay, silts, and sandy bands chemically fused into a hard rock that was subsequently subjected to high pressures causing considerable cleavage or shattering.

2016 Update: Thanks to the North Wales Bolting Fund a serious upgrade has been made to this cliff. Many of the best routes now have 2 bolt lower off points and most of the older 6mm bolts have been removed. Good quality 8mm and 10mm bolts protect most routes adequately. Routes that may require some trad equipment or have poorer protection are now indicated. 

LO = lower off in place  

TR = trad gear would help

PO = old bolts / pegs 

Descents: Entrance Wall - walk to easy slopes to the east. Hangover Buttress - scramble west from the middle ledge or abseil from the huge stake. Walk off west from the top ledge. Car Park Quarry - a short step on the north side leads to the 1st terrace below the main Wall from here walk down to the car park (keep north initially). Main Wall - right hand routes: descent as for Car Park Quarry, Blackendecker: use lower off point or abseil from tree (both awkward) or traverse along ledge leftwards to easier ground.

Approach notes

All routes are practically roadside, with a car park and toilet facilities.

The routes close to cheeky half are solid, its worth a stop off for these few. However in general, its not a great venue due to poor rock quality, unless you like that sort of thing.....
Esoterical - 05/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

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