55m, 2 pitches.
Located on the buttress left of the giant boulder mentioned in the SMC definitive guide.
Climb up at the niche towards the left of the slab and continue leftwards on the obvious ledge above the overhang towards the left arete. Arrange good but fiddly protection at slab level before committing boldly to the leftwards slanting crack above. Pass two jammed (?) blocks to a slight rest at a downward pointing flake before committing to the slab above directly past a tiny triangular niche and a smile feature to a ledge (gear out right). Continue easily up the wall above to a second larger ledge and belay. Tackle the enjoyable layback crack above. A feisty lady!
Climb up at the niche towards the left of the slab and continue leftwards on the obvious ledge above the overhang towards the left arete. Arrange good but fiddly protection at slab level before committing boldly to the leftwards slanting crack above. Pass two jammed (?) blocks to a slight rest at a downward pointing flake before committing to the slab above directly past a tiny triangular niche and a smile feature to a ledge (gear out right). Continue easily up the wall above to a second larger ledge and belay. Tackle the enjoyable layback crack above. A feisty lady!
Robert Middleton, Helen Fairclough 30/Mar/2018.
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Route of Interest
Cuckoo Waltz
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Creag Druim Eadar da Choire)