55m, 2 pitches.
1. 50m Follow pitch 1 of Judas Priest to where it breaks right but instead continue directly up the steepish groove above to belay on the terrace at the foot of a rib, right of the big chimney corner.
2. 35m Move up into the base of the chimney-corner and go out right to gain a hanging groove on the rib (technical crux). Follow grooves over bulges to a steep 15m chimney-groove and a narrow, square-cut exit.
With pitch 1 of Judas Priest this gives sustained and interesting climbing.
2. 35m Move up into the base of the chimney-corner and go out right to gain a hanging groove on the rib (technical crux). Follow grooves over bulges to a steep 15m chimney-groove and a narrow, square-cut exit.
With pitch 1 of Judas Priest this gives sustained and interesting climbing.
Forrest Templeton, Kevin Murphy 31/Jan/2016.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Gold Coast Direct
Grade: V 5 ***
(Beinn a' Bhuird - Cnap a' Chleirich)