Altitude 48m a.s.l
Marti Hallett on the first pitch of Black Ice (E3) on the Main Slab at Long Quarry Point. © Mark Glaister
Extensive historic quarrying of the headland has created a vaguely surreal grassy plain, fringed with low cliffs and pinnacles. Climbs of contrasting style and stature now exist around the quarried headland; there are fine deep water solos and short routes on the seaward rim and more substantial gear-protected slab and wall climbs on the back walls. The Shadow Beast area has a few technical and higher grade bolted routes.
The gear-protected lines can be somewhat 'Alpine', with a smattering of vegetation and some hollow rock in places, including ubiquitous 'exfoliating flakes'. There is good adventure to be had for more experienced teams. The leading experience on many climbs can be substantially improved by a quick tidy-up on abseil; check condition notes on particular routes and/or contact the moderator if you have interest in a particular line.
Take the footpath signed to Walls Hill Downs from beside The Range retail outlet. Continue across the open ground to a white shelter and pick up a small path behind it that leads steeply down to the quarry floor.
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