UKC

150m, 4 pitches. WI4, M4. One of the most classic mixed climbs in the state and probably the most classic route of its grade in RMNP. Often in condition during the fall (October/November) before it gets dried out by the winds. Sometimes comes in again in the spring after some freeze thaw action.

Approach as for routes on the diamond (estimate 5 hours if lake is froze, 8 otherwise). Once at the base of the diamond head about 150m up lamb slide and spot the obvious gash in the wall on your right. Climb to to Broadway if snow conditions allow a walk off descent via lambslide. Otherwise consider ab options just shy of broadway since once on broadway abseil anchors are harder to come by.

There are two points of objective hazard. First is a short snow field on the approach between the outhouse and Chasm lake. Second is Lamb's slide where there's more notable avalanche potential.

Pitch 2 is the ice crux. End of Pitch 3 is the mixed crux getting past a chockstone. Don't be intimidated by the wind on approach. The route is often sheltered. I went airborne crossing chasm lake despite my best efforts at staying grounded, but had no issues once on route.

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