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Climbs 111
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

Crag features

Longstone Ope is the extensive and generally scruffy quarried area south of the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall. It has surprisingly decent bouldering with enough problems of varying styles within close proximity for a worthwhile day out. As you walk south from the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall there is climbable rock everywhere, much of which is either isolated or of poor quality. We have focused on the southern end of the area where the quality and concentration of the problems increase. The area definitely has that 'quarry feel' to it and there is little natural beauty, though it would be grossly unfair to describe the atmosphere as unpleasant.

The sectors face all directions except west so it should be possible to find sun or shade as desired. Many of the walls are also very sheltered from the wind.

Approach notes

Use the limited parking spot near the Southwell pumping station. Follow a path past the pumping station to the coast. If the limited parking is already taken, reach this point by parking near Cheyne House and walking past the Neddyfields Bouldering Wall. All the sectors are found by following the coast path south through a disused quarry.

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Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
Descent to Sea Gods area is quite tricky - especially with a pad on your back, the way down is as hard as some of the easier problems in the sector: f3ish.
The Ivanator - 02/Aug/15
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