14m.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| morveren | 11 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: * right hand on juggy bit at the top of the first flake * Left up to the lower part of the next block (hold as side pull) * Hips to right and right hand up to jug * Match jug and work feet up (still hips in to right). Can really dig in left hand, with some pain * Right hand to a crimp by the fig tree * Left heel hook (on second hold in route) and left hand up to bobbly pinch * Work feet up and cross over right hand to jug on the right of the tufa * Left hand to tufa and shake out (hard stuff to come) * Right foot out to the right on a diagonal block * Drop knee to first ledge on right * Match (I think), then bump right hand up to second ledge (there's an incut bit on the left of this) * Left hand to the tufa * Work feet left a bit, then right hand to a side pull on the right of the tufa * Right hand to a good edge and match * Hips to the right and right hand gaston, work this up to a juggier section at the top of the flake * Shift weight across and get left hand gaston on the bottom right of the three vertical pipes (possibly via block in the middle) * Hips to the left, then right hand match as an undercling * Left hand to an excellent pocket, and rest for a bit * Right hand to side pull on the tufa and work the feet on bad holds * Cross over with left onto a bulge at the top of the tufa * Match the bulge * Left hand to a good edge * At some point, left foot should be on a small bump * Right hand to a spiky crimp * Right drop knee and bump to a spiky bulge (kinda bad) * Left foot high on a good hold and rock over somewhat dynamically to a sharp diagonal crimp with the left hand * Bump left hand to a jug * After this flake, it's mostly scrabbling | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: * right hand on juggy bit at the top of the first flake * Left up to the lower part of the next block (hold as side pull) * Hips to right and right hand up to jug * Match jug and work feet up (still hips in to right). Can really dig in left hand, with some pain * Right hand to a crimp by the fig tree * Left heel hook (on second hold in route) and left hand up to bobbly pinch * Work feet up and cross over right hand to jug on the right of the tufa * Left hand to tufa and shake out (hard stuff to come) * Right foot out to the right on a diagonal block * Drop knee to first ledge on right * Match (I think), then bump right hand up to second ledge (there's an incut bit on the left of this) * Left hand to the tufa * Work feet left a bit, then right hand to a side pull on the right of the tufa * Right hand to a good edge and match * Hips to the right and right hand gaston, work this up to a juggier section at the top of the flake * Shift weight across and get left hand gaston on the bottom right of the three vertical pipes (possibly via block in the middle) * Hips to the left, then right hand match as an undercling * Left hand to an excellent pocket, and rest for a bit * Right hand to side pull on the tufa and work the feet on bad holds * Cross over with left onto a bulge at the top of the tufa * Match the bulge * Left hand to a good edge * At some point, left foot should be on a small bump * Right hand to a spiky crimp * Right drop knee and bump to a spiky bulge (kinda bad) * Left foot high on a good hold and rock over somewhat dynamically to a sharp diagonal crimp with the left hand * Bump left hand to a jug * After this flake, it's mostly scrabbling |
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Route of Interest
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Moclin)