UKC

3 pitches. E2 5c direct or E1 5b with the easier start. Just to the left of Land of Hearts Desire three thin vertical cracks/ seams run down the face. Climb these with increasing difficulty and trend left at the top to gain the corner crack (Alternatively, take the easier start on the left). Climb the corner (always wet at the start) and then the left wall until it's possible to step onto the grassy ledge at its highest point and belay in the right corner.
5a/b Climb the corner to the top and just below the grassy ledge, step across to gain a flake on the left wall. Continue up the thin crack on the short slab onto the large block. Swing around this to the right and climb the crack for a few metres until it widens from hands to a short flakey off width and step left onto the sloping ledge.
5a/b Continue up the crack for the last few metres and then a series of holds lead across to the flake on the slab. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty to the overlap and then using underclings, follow it to the left.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
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Route of Interest
The Fomorians

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Muckish Mountain)

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