UKC

75m, 3 pitches. A very enjoyable route taking more or less a direct line up the centre of the crag. Start to the right of
the slab tongue below Byzantium, a long sloping heather ledge runs right' across the bottom of the main Face. Scramble up this to its upper right hand end at a prominent corner. About 8m left of this corner a ramp leads leftwards. Start at the foot of this.
1: 4c 39m Follow the ramp and small ledges at the foot of the obvious crack system, which continues more or less directly to the top of the crag. Gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to gain a ledge in a small corner below a large flake.
2: 4c 18m Move up for 3m and step left onto a slab. Follow the crack above to the small perched ledge in the niche under the roof.
3: 5a 18m Bridge around the roof and gain twin cracks which split the slab. Bridge up these (crux) to gain a small niche. Continue up the crack to the top. Friends essential for protection.

D. Stelfox, I. Rea 1982.

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Route of Interest
Shanghied

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Malinbeg)

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