UKC

100m, 3 pitches. Surrealistic Pillar is a fun romp up the lower buttress, with a short approach and the easiest way to get to the upper Main Wall, this is a popular climb. You quickly gain the height of the forest canopy on the first pitch which makes for an exciting start. The route finding can be tricky and there are certain variations that make this climb less fun as they take dirtier lines up looser rock. I met many people in the campsite over the weekend that missed the "Trembling Travese" on pitch 2 and end up in a bushy and loose gully.

1) Interesting starting (possibly crux) leads to piton, and traversing left on large dikes to crack (think of your second when placing gear). Enjoyable crack and dikes lead to belay on small ledges beneath main corner/flake (take big cams).
2) Head up crack/flake/corner until moves left lead to dikes and flake in centre of face. Where/when you do this determines how much gear you get, and how many 5.7/8 moves you do. As the face flake and the huge right-hand flake meet, place gear and traverse left to arete, and a face full of exposure. Do not be tempted to go straight up... place gear, trust your feet and traverse out and around the arete. Dike-hiking with no gear (5.5) leads to large belay - warning, communication with belayer below is nigh impossible.
3) Last 50 foot of dike-hiking - can be combined with previous pitch if you have a 60m rope, and really don't want to hear your second.

English VS.

Ken and Mike Edsburg, Jerry Sublette 1963.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamesovens 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch if the technical crux with protection where you want it to be. 2nd Pitch is difficult to protect but very fun and the climbing is secure. pitch 3 is pretty much a solo to the top.
Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch if the technical crux with protection where you want it to be. 2nd Pitch is difficult to protect but very fun and the climbing is secure. pitch 3 is pretty much a solo to the top.

Logged Ascents

44 users have logged this
2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
High 5.6
Mid 5.6
Low 5.6
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Corrugation Corner

Grade: 5.7 ***
(Lover's Leap)

Loading Notifications...