UKC

The obvious black streak

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User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 7 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A little surprised at some of the comments here and our disagreement with them, or absence of comment. No dissent that the route is challenging and at times difficult to find the correct line. certainly too, we would agree that pitch 2 is a fine and slightly spooky meander ( we largely went up the back streak, then stepped right, then back left much more easily), though the 'committing' part (as described in the guidebook) never arrived. Pitch 3 however is very bold, tricky to decipher where the soundest rock lies, and justifies E1 5a in its own right. why also the guidebook thinks this is best done as a 50m pitch is hard to fathom. the drag is awful. The start of pitch 4 then arrives as a bit of a bouldery shock. The initial stiff pull after the small wires is greeted next by a moving hold which is not welcome given the potential impact on the ledge below. (ultimately that points to a bad outcome for someone!) what follows next is not straightforward either, and we felt borders 5c. Thereafter, anything remotely classic declines into a scrappy 100m romp to the top. Thank goodness for the well marked descent to the road.
Show beta
βeta: A little surprised at some of the comments here and our disagreement with them, or absence of comment. No dissent that the route is challenging and at times difficult to find the correct line. certainly too, we would agree that pitch 2 is a fine and slightly spooky meander ( we largely went up the back streak, then stepped right, then back left much more easily), though the 'committing' part (as described in the guidebook) never arrived. Pitch 3 however is very bold, tricky to decipher where the soundest rock lies, and justifies E1 5a in its own right. why also the guidebook thinks this is best done as a 50m pitch is hard to fathom. the drag is awful. The start of pitch 4 then arrives as a bit of a bouldery shock. The initial stiff pull after the small wires is greeted next by a moving hold which is not welcome given the potential impact on the ledge below. (ultimately that points to a bad outcome for someone!) what follows next is not straightforward either, and we felt borders 5c. Thereafter, anything remotely classic declines into a scrappy 100m romp to the top. Thank goodness for the well marked descent to the road.

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Guidebooks for Lower Eagle

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Delerium

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Aylim)

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