UKC

25m. Start about 4 m right of the foot of Rowan Gully on the left side of a short crack. Pull on and climb easy slabs. Step right to the steepening and climb the right side of the crack feature to the big horizontal break. (Holds in and below the next crack right are in at the grade: even with these this section could be 5c for the short? Going directly up the crack direct is harder still and reachier). Continue up the crack through the bulge to the foot of the upper notch. Traverse left for 2 m and make a final steep move up to easy ground that leads to the in-situ anchor.

Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 02/Jul/2025.

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Route of Interest
Song of the Gavilan

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Trwyn yr Wylfa Area)

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